Which is the Best Cordless Power Tool Brand?

From this week’s mailbag came a question I’ve been dreading for so long. It essentially comes down to this: Which is the Best Cordless Power Tool Brand?

Each major brand is special in their own way, with their unique innovations, expertise, and advantages.

The major contenders would be Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, and Milwaukee. There are also other brands, such as Ridgid, Ryobi, Metabo, Hilti, Panasonic, and Festool. But generally, the greatest competition is between blue, yellow, teal, and red brands.

Bosch
Benefits: Solid performance and reliability, decent product selection in 12V and 18V lineups, occasional innovations, a great overall brand, stellar 12V offerings.

Downsides: 12V and 18V lineups not as vast as other brands’, some core tools aren’t “best in class” in notable categories.

High interest Bosch products include their inductive charging system, cordless drills with anti-kickback protection, and their hybrid impact driver and wrench.

DeWalt
Benefits: Known for superb durability (a lot of 18V tools keep on ticking), expanding 20V Max product line, with a couple of fantastic innovations (such as the 2-speed brushless nailer), okay 12V product selection. 20V Max pistol grips are super-ergonomic.

Downsides: 20V Max expansion has been slow, answers to competitors’ advancements have been slow.

Some of the best newer Dewalt cordless products include a compact reciprocating saw, 2-speed brushless framing nailer, and a rather popular 3-speed brushless hammer drill.

Makita
Benefits: Very large 18V selection, fast charger with best-in-class charging times, surprising innovations, often solid performance and jobsite durability, 18V X2 lineup allows for bigger and beefier 36V tools to be powered by 18V batteries.

Downsides: Very limited and long-in-the-tooth 12V lineup, slow to bring certain tools and battery pack sizes to the USA.

Makita is the brand to choose if you have very specific needs, such as the maximum torque in a cordless drill, quietest impact (impulse) driver, or smallest impact driver.

Milwaukee
Benefits: Vast M18 and M12 tool selection, including largest brushless tool selection in both battery sizes. Often a leader, with innovations that break the mold, such as an M12 rotary hammer, brushless tools with corded-like performance. Many more specialty tools than competing brands.

Downsides: Certain tools are especially pricey. First to market means competitors have time to answer with slight improvements to tool size, weight, power, or features.

Get more information about power tools: www.eastmachinery.com

Introduction Of Electric Jig Saw

Circular saws have a round blade powered by an electric motor. They can be fitted with several types of blades, including a multipurpose blade for making crosscuts and ripping wood.

If you’re looking for an electric version of a coping saw for making cuts that are not straight, choose a jig saw  (also called a saber saw). These saws rest on a flat metal foot and have a small, narrow blade that moves up and down quickly to cut through wood. You can also find specialty blades for other materials. Pressing the foot of a jigsaw against the material you’re cutting keeps the blade perpendicular. Because jig saws don’t have a frame like a coping saw, cuts can be made far from the edge of the wood.

How to choose Electric Saws

Electric saws are essential tools for home and woodworking projects. Powerful, reliable, and versatile, electric saws come in many types to handle tasks from cutting sheet metal to carving details in wood. Whether buying a first saw or a specialty addition, investigate options to find the best saw for the job.

Electric saws range from stationary table saws for cutting large materials to jig saws for carving intricate scrollwork. For versatile home use, consider a circular saw or a table-mount band saw.


Portable saws come in corded or cordless models. Cordless saws are heavier and need frequent recharging but are convenient for working at a distance from power outlets. Corded saws offer consistent cutting power and convenience in more stationary environments.

The weight and feel of a handheld saw differ considerably between similar brands and models. In addition to reading reviews and ratings, try out several products. The saw should have a comfortable handle, a balanced feel, and solid craftsmanship. Keep in mind that some tasks require holding the saw for long periods, and even a lighter model can become unwieldy.

If projects involve cutting hard or thick wood, buy a powerful model that can saw the material without excessive slowing or jamming. A saw that repeatedly cuts beyond its capacity will burn out its motor or other parts.

How To Build A Tree Bench With Power Tools?

Introduction
How to build a tree bench with power tools? This comfy, stay-cool spot has room for the entire family, and you'll enjoy lounging on it with a favorite book all summer long.

Step 1: Create a Template
You'll make the bench from six sections of equal size. Measure the tree's diameter in inches at the seat's height (16 to 18 inches). Add 6 inches for a mature tree; add 12 inches for a young tree, to allow for growth. Divide the total by 1.75 to find the length of the short sides of the inner seat boards. Mark this length on a strip of scrap lumber or cardboard, and cut the ends at opposing 30-degree angles so that the opposite side is longer. Cut five more template pieces to size. Check for fit by joining the pieces around the tree using clamps or scrap lumber, and adjust as needed.

Step 2: Size the Seat Boards
Use a piece of the template to cut an inner seat board to size from 5⁄4x6 decking. Lay three boards parallel to it, separated by ¼-inch spacers, as shown. Lay two pieces of scrap lumber atop the boards, following the angled cuts on the inner seat board, and trace cut lines onto the uncut boards.

Step 3: Cut the Boards to Size
Set the miter saw to 30 degrees. Cut the three seat boards you marked in the last step to length with opposing angles on either end. Using each of the four seat boards as a guide, measure and cut five more boards at each size to make all the seat boards for the bench's six sections.

Tip: When you're cutting many equal-size pieces, use a stop block with your saw to size the cuts, and try swapping them around in layout to find the best fit before resorting to sanding joints or cutting new pieces. 

Step 4: Lay Out and Adjust the Boards
Arrange the seat boards in a hexagonal shape on a flat surface using ¼-inch spacers between them, as shown. Starting with the inner seat boards, align and adjust the joints between them. Then adjust successive rings of boards until the joints are aligned and the pieces fit together.

Step 5: Cut the Pieces
The leg assemblies consist of outer and inner legs sandwiched between two stringers. Cut 12 legs from 2x6 framing to the height of the bench, minus the thickness of the seat boards. (If the ground around the tree is uneven, make the legs longer so that you can level the bench later by digging out soil beneath them.) Measure the distance from the midpoint of an inner seat board at its cut end to the long point of the outer seat board. Subtract 3 inches to leave room for a reveal and an apron. Cut 12 stringers from decking to this length. Cut a 30-degree miter off the front end of each stringer, where the apron will be attached, as shown in the illustration.

Step 6: Mark and Drill Bolt Holes
Using a Speed Square, measure 2 inches from the front edge of an outer leg, and make a vertical mark on the flat side of the leg at this spot. Repeat for the other side of the leg. Sandwich the leg between two stringers so that the pieces are flush at the top, with the long ends flat against the leg and lined up with the marks you made. Slip the inner leg between the stringers, and use a spacer to keep it parallel to and at least a few inches from the outer leg. (Don't move the inner leg too far back; you don't want it to rest on any tree roots.) Clamp the pieces to a work surface on top of a scrap block of wood. Drill two vertically aligned 3⁄8-inch holes through the stringers and outer leg, as shown. Then drill two staggered, diagonally offset holes through the stringers and inner leg.

Step 7: Bolt the Leg Assemblies Together
Slip a 3⁄8x4-inch carriage bolt through each hole you made in the last step. Use an adjustable wrench to secure each bolt with a washer and nut. Repeat these steps for the remaining five leg assemblies.

Step 8: Begin Assembling the Sections
Stand the leg assemblies in position on a flat surface, using clamps to keep them from tipping over. Lay the seat boards, with ¼-inch spacers between them, on top of the leg assemblies. The joints between the boards should be centered over the legs. Adjust the boards so that the front edge of the bench creates a ½-inch reveal beyond each leg assembly. Next, create two sets of two joined sections. Attach the outer three seat boards of two adjacent sections to the three leg assemblies they rest on (two at the ends and one in the middle) by drilling 3⁄32-inch pilot holes through the boards and into the stringers, then driving 2-inch deck screws into the pilot holes. Do the same for the two adjacent sections that are opposite the ones you just fastened together. Remove and set aside any loose seat boards.

Step 9: Attach the Remaining Sections
Place the two sets of joined sections on opposite sides of the tree. Place the remaining seat boards between them, on top of the exposed halves of the leg assemblies. Adjust the joints, and fasten the outer three seat boards to the stringers, as described in the last step.

Step 10: Level the Bench
Place a level on the seat of the assembled bench. Use a garden spade to remove soil beneath the legs until the seat is flat.

Step 11: Cut and Install the Backrest
Set the edge of a framing board flush with the back edge of an inner seat board. Scribe the angles of the cut ends of the seat board onto the backrest’s bottom edge, and bevel the ends of the backrest following the 30-degree cut lines you marked. Glue the backrest to the back edge of the seat board. Lift the pieces from the bench and clamp them together. Drill 3⁄32-inch pilot holes through the underside of the seat board and into the backrest. Drive 3-inch deck screws through the holes. Set the assembly in place; repeat for the adjacent seat board and backrest. Glue together the mitered edges of adjacent backrests, and drill 3⁄32-inch pilot holes diagonally through the joint at the top and bottom. Drive a 2-inch deck screw through each hole. Repeat until the entire backrest is fastened together. Then screw the inner seat boards to the stringers, as described in the 9th step.

Step 12: Cut and Install the Apron
Measure the distance between the long points of the stringers for each section. Cut six boards from framing to this length, beveling the ends with 30-degree miters. Hold one board in place by clamping it beneath an outer seat board. Drill pilot holes and attach it to the outer legs with 3-inch deck screws, as described for the backrest in the last step. Drive a few evenly spaced screws through the length of the outer seat board and into the top edge of the apron. Repeat for the remaining apron boards. Finish the bench by sanding any rough spots.

Serendipitibus, Dream With Power Tools

 These college students bought an old school bus and turned it into something amazing so they could travel the United States together.


Eight newly graduated Notre Dame students are about to embark on a journey many wish they had taken before stepping into the adult workforce.

Six young men and two young women are stepping onto a 1995 Carpenter school bus and traveling 8,000 miles across 22 states.

The graduates, with the help of a couple sponsors digging deep in their wallets, took the bus and converted it into an RV, dubbed the “SerendipitiBus.” The bus is fully equipped with a kitchen and bunk-beds.

However, this will be more than just a "last blast." The grads teamed up with McDonald's and plan to feed rural America.

Nick Machesney, a Notre Dame graduate, said, “They're going to be promoting us, we're going to be promoting them. In turn, we're going to be going to McDonald’s restaurants in small town America and just going in and buying everyone their meals. It's part of the Spreading Happiness campaign they have going on right now.”

Their tour officially began Tuesday, but they're heading towards the west coast Saturday morning.

Knowledge of the safe use of power tools (1)

In Europe and North America, people have been enjoying the fun of gardening or DIY manufacturing furniture. They pass this creative work, all the time to show their living environment, lifestyle design, expressing interest in life and beauty to understand. The development of modern industrial technology for this family provides a complete set of convenient, efficient, safe and reliable tool. As we all know, power tools, household penetration in Europe has reached a high level, at the same time, the power tool in design is also their quality to meet the various needs of users. Safe use of power tools, the knowledge, what does?

1, the workplace; please keep the work area neat and good light. Cluttered benches and dark work areas may cause accidents; Do not use in explosive environments power tool if flammable liquids, gases or dust. Power tools create sparks may ignite dust and gas.

2, the electric power socket must be safe and consistent power plug of the power tool. In any case can not modify the power plug. Do not use any socket with common ground. Not the modified plugs and appropriate socket can reduce the risk of electric shock. Avoid physical contact with grounded surfaces, such as pipes, heating, stoves and refrigerators. If your body is grounded, it will increase the risk of electric shock. The device away from rain and moisture. Power tools can increase the risk of electric shock water. Do not use the power cord move to do it, such as a poppet, hang tools or pull the plug from the receptacle. Plug the power cord away from heat, oil, sharp edges or moving parts of the tool. Damaged or entangled cords increase the risk of electric shock; when you use a power tool outdoors, use permit for outdoor use extension cord. Use suitable for outdoor use of an extension cord can reduce the risk of electric shock.

Eastmachinery Supplier - Jinding Power Tools

East Machinery Groove Cutting Machines Wall Chasers Demo

How to buy power tools?

Purchase of electric tools first rule, not to save money and buy cheap tools. Well constructed tool is safe and easy to use, and a much longer life than the cheaper tools. Indeed, the beginning you may spend some money, but in the long run, high-quality tools but is for you to save money. The value of a good tool is usually reflected in the quality and performance, and are not normally sold at a discount.
When buying a chainsaw, you are ready to consider cutting the material and size of the work space. The wider the blade, cutting deeper. The most common blade diameter is 184.15 mm (7-1 / 4 inches). If you use an extension cable rope work is not easy, so rechargeable circular saw is your best choice. Cordless circular saw smaller volume, use in a small space is also very smoothly.
Due to the limitations of batteries, rechargeable circular saw most suitable for cutting wood and wood products, it can be cut hard materials, but power consumption is very fast. Charging cable circular saw does not rely on batteries to power, and therefore more suitable for cutting hard things, such as stone, steel and wood cutting continued.
When the release switch, the gates quickly saw the motor current in the rewind, instant blade stop. Closed motor shaft does not move, the blade is fixed, so it is much easier to replace the blade. Steel blade price is not high, no problem cutting cork; however, if the cutting hardwood, will soon become dull blade.

High-speed steel blade is much more rigid than ordinary steel blade, and last longer. Carbide saw blades (carbideblade) has pointed carbide teeth. Carbide saw blade is much more expensive than the other, but it's time to stay sharp much longer than steel blades and rapid steel blade.
Tile cutting blade (tile-cuttingblade) designed specifically for cutting tiles. Better tile cutting saw blade with a serrated diamond. Stone saw the diamond material, for cutting concrete, brick, cinder block and other stone materials.