10 Circular Saw Secrets: DIY GUY

Most novice do-it-yourselfers feel perfectly comfortable using an electric drill or jigsaw, but nearly all of them are hesitant to pick up a portable circular saw. And that's not surprising when you consider that drills and jigsaws are relatively safe, quiet and easy to control. A portable circular saw, on the other hand, is a powerful, noisy, sawdust-spewing brute that can inflict serious injury if it's used improperly—it's on our list of the 5 Most Dangerous Tools. However, to improve your DIY skills and advance the size and scope of your weekend projects, it's important to learn to cut with a circular saw. Here are 10 tips to help you cut safely and more confidently. Reminder: Wear eye protection when using any power tool.

1. Inspect the Saw

Before each use, run a quick safety check on the saw. Be sure the lower blade guard retracts smoothly and snaps back when released. Check the blade for chipped or broken teeth; replace the blade if you find any damage. On corded saws, inspect the power cord for cracks. If using a cordless saw, make sure the battery is fully charged. Remember to unplug the cord or remove the battery before loosening, tightening, or changing the blade.

2. Check the Blade

The speed and quality of the cut depends on the condition of the saw blade. Never cut with a dull, rusty, or damaged blade. I recommend using a thin-kerf carbide-tipped combination blade, which can be used for crosscuts and rip cuts in solid wood and plywood. With the saw unplugged or the battery removed, adjust the saw's depth of cut so the blade extends no more than 1/4 in. past the board's edge.

Circular saws aren't just woodcutting tools. When fitted with the proper blade, the saw can also saw through various types of metal, and through masonry such as brick, stone and concrete.

3. Find the Proper Saw Position

There's no hard-and-fast rule regarding which direction to make the cut, but whenever possible position the saw with its motor facing toward the larger section of board that isn't falling away when cut. That way, the saw's base plate, or shoe, will be fully supported throughout the cut and you won't have to hold up the weight of the saw as the severed piece drops away.

4. Make Easy, Accurate Crosscuts

Making perfectly square crosscuts with a circular saw is easy, if you guide the saw with a layout square (a framing square or Speed Square will work). Hold the saw in place with its blade right on the cut line. Then slide the square against the saw's base plate, and press it tightly against the edge of the board. Check to be sure the blade isn't contacting the board, then squeeze the trigger and allow the saw to reach full speed. Now simply guide the saw along the square to produce a clean, square cut.

5. Prevent Binding

When cutting sheets of plywood or paneling, it's important to provide the proper support to eliminate dangerous kickback, which can occur if the blade gets pinched in the cut. Place four long 2 x 4s underneath the sheet you're cutting, spacing one 2 x 4 close to each side of the cut line. Then, when you make the cut, both halves of the plywood will be fully supported by two 2 x 4s throughout the cut. When cutting lumber on sawhorses, plan the cut outside the sawhorse pair (not between them). Allow the shorter piece to fall away, while the longer piece stays supported on the horses. Cutting between the horses causes lumber to pinch the blade as it falls through.

6. Make Precise Rips

A rip cut is simply a cut that runs parallel with the grain of the wood, as opposed to a crosscut, which goes across the wood grain. Most circular saws come with a metal rip guide that attaches to the saw's base plate. This type of guide works, but it's limited to rips of only about 6 in. wide. A better option is to clamp an 8-ft-long board in place for use as a straightedge guide. You could make the guide from a perfectly straight 1 x 8 or 1 x 10, but I prefer a 10- to 12-in.-wide wide rip of 1/2-in. birch plywood. The factory edge of the plywood is always smooth and perfectly straight, making it an ideal saw guide. Mark the cut line on the piece you're ripping, then measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of the saw's base plate, which, let's say, is 3-1/2 in. Now measure over from the cut line 3-1/2 in. and clamp or screw the straightedge guide in place. As you make the cut, keep the saw's base plate pressed against the straightedge guide. Here are our illustrated instructions on making a similar circular saw guide.

7. Avoid Wood Splintering

A spinning circular saw blade enters the bottom of the board and exits through the top, and as a result, splintering often occurs on the top surface. Now that's not a concern when cutting wall studs or floor joists, but it is when sawing expensive hardwoods or hardwood-veneer plywood. Here's the solution: Place the board or panel with its best surface facing down. That way, any splintering will occur on the top or back side. When trimming doors down to size, you want to eliminate splintering from both sides. Here's how: Again place the best side face down, meaning the side of the door that will be most visible once it's hung. Then score along the edge of the cut line with a sharp utility knife. Now when you make the cut, the wood fibers will break off cleanly at the scored line, leaving a smooth, splinter-free cut. I recently put this advice into practice when explaining how to build a classic wooden storage bench.

8. Stack, Clamp and Cut

When you need to cut more than one piece of plywood to the same size, try a technique know as gang cutting. Stack four or five sheets on top of each other, making sure the edges are perfectly aligned. Clamp the pieces, then adjust the saw blade to its maximum depth of cut, and saw through all the sheets at the same time.

9. Safe Bevel Cutting

All circular saws can be adjusted to make angled bevel cuts up to at least 45 degrees. However, when the base plate is tilted all the way over, the lower blade guard has a tendency to catch on the edge of the board. If this happens, don't force the saw. Instead, release the trigger, raise the blade guard by hand, and then make the cut. Once the blade has cut an inch or so into the wood, you can release the guard.

10. Gravity-Fed Sawing

At some point, you may need to make a long, straight, vertical cut into a wall, and the circular saw is right the tool to use. Just remember to start the saw at the top of the wall and cut down. That way, gravity will be working in your favor; simply allow the weight of the saw to advance the blade through the cut.

Best Tools for your Tool belt

First things first – safety. Every employee should wear a safety harness, complete with an anchor point, while roofing. This is a must.

   
 Your ladder – okay so it doesn’t fit in your tool belt. Regardless, it’s important. We know there are lots of ladders out there, but using your ladder is the best way to prevent injury. Take one that goes to high heights but retains stability.

    A shingle remover (a.k.a. a roofing shovel) – This roofing shovel will help you remove old shingles and nails quickly. It does the same job that hammers & pry bars can do but with less effort. Save your energy for elsewhere.

    Roofing nailer  – or more specifically, a coil nailer. This nailer is the most effective nail gun out there. It will make your job exponentially more efficient.

    Roofing hammer  – This tool gets used side by side with the roofing nailer and it’s not just your average hammer! Tap down nails, remove incorrectly placed tiles, and clean up the area with ease by investing in this specialized tool.

    A hammer tacker – as a roofer, you know that a roofing job can come to an immediate stop if the underlayment isn’t placed down quickly. These staple guns are set by impact, so they are easy to use and easy to refill.

    A specialized, sharp roofer’s utility knife  – this tool is to cut roofing material. A sharp one will speed up both your time and your project.

    Chalk line – the chalk line will serve as a guide to keep your shingles straight. Do the work without having to re-do the work!

Click on the store www.eastmachinery.com to see more cheap power tools.

Build Your Own Camp Kitchen Chuck Box

An organized kitchen is the secret to a happy camping trip. That said, it’s not always easy to keep all of your cooking gear and ingredients readily accessible when you’re at the campsite.

Let’s face it; tossing everything randomly in cardboard boxes will only get you so far. This tutorial provides instructions for a do-it-yourself wooden camp kitchen box that’ll solve your culinary organizational quandaries once and for all. Plus, it looks good and is pretty much guaranteed to impress the heck out of your camping buddies.

Supplies needed:

   * 4′ x 8′ sheet of ½” plywood
   * 4 sets of hinges
   * 2 latches
   * 2 magnetic closures
   * Wood glue
   * Screws
   * Lid prop (recycled tent pole section)

Tools needed:

    * Screwdriver
    * Tape measures
    * Drill with small bit
    * Pencils
    * Construction square
    * Skill saw (many hardware stores offer cutting services)
    * Small handsaw
    * Safety glasses

Step 1

Measure your gear. First, measure your stove with the fuel bottle attached. This will give you the overall length and width of your box. Make sure to add some space in order to allow the stove lid to open and to hold any items you might want to store next to your stove. Measure the height of any gear you want to store upright (maximum height) in order to help determine shelf spacing.

Step 2

Lay out all your measurements onto the sheet of plywood. Try to make the most out of the sheet. Line up all similar cuts and start cutting. If you don’t own a saw, most hardware stores offer cutting services when you purchase wood. If you plan to have the hardware store do the cutting, you’ll want to provide a cut list and a diagram to help the hardware store determine the best way to cut.

Step 3

Line up the back and side pieces and mark your shelf height location with a pencil; this will make it easier to screw in your shelves after the outer box is built.

 Step 4

Start by assembling the sides and back of the box. If you are not using self-drilling screws, you should pre-drill holes for best results. Screw and glue all seams.

Step 5

Attach the bottom of box, screw and glue all seams.

Step 6

Pre-assemble the shelves outside of the box. Make sure to square the top and bottom, as this will make them easier to install. If you’re adding a top shelf face board, install it now. Screw and glue all seams.

Step 7

Install the shelves using the pre-marked lines. Screw and glue all seams.

 Step 8

Attach the top/lid to the short face board. Screw and glue all seams.

Step 9

Attaches hinges to top/lid and front face board.

Step 10

Install remaining hardware (latches, magnets, etc.). Locations will vary based on the design and dimensions of your camp kitchen chuck box.

Step 11

Sand all edges round and stain/seal plywood.

Step 12

Post pictures of your completed camp kitchen to your favorite social media sites and then go camping! Get cheap Power tools sale at www.eastmachinery.com

5 Small Tools That Will Make Your DIY Projects Much Easier

Do you like to tackle DIY projects around your home? You might have built a nice collection in your tool box, but there are certain small tools that many homeowners might not know about and will make your DIY projects much easier to complete.

1. Paint Can Pour Lid

Painting a room or a piece of furniture are two of the most common DIY projects and they are usually done with a can of paint. These cans can get messy, especially when you’re trying to pour the paint into a paint tray. The paint spreads all around the top, making it hard for you to hammer the lid back on. Over time, the paint can lid will start to rust and become distorted, dirtying up your paint and drying it up in the process. Ugh.

Try using these paint can pour lids, which cost only a little more than $2 each. They will seal the paint can completely with much less mess. And you can wash them and reuse them for more painting projects in the future!

2. 5-in-1 Tool

Multi-tasking tools are always better than several separate tools that only have one purpose each and take up more space in your toolbox. This 5-in-1 tool is so useful for many different DIY projects, from painting to repairing drywall.

It can scrape paint and wallpaper, spread drywall compound and wall putty, and open paint cans. Use this small tool to remove things from small spaces, such as old caulk from windows, old wood filler from furniture, and more. There’s also a half round cut-out on the tool that will remove paint off your paint roller.

Put it in your tool belt and you’ll be amazed at how often you’ll use it for all kinds of things!

3. Cabinet and Drawer Template

If you’ve ever installed hardware on brand new (or freshly painted) cabinet doors or drawers, you know how nerve-wracking it can be. You have to measure everything, make sure all of your holes line up so your hardware won’t look crooked, and actually drill into your precious cabinets.

These cabinet and drawer templates will give you a peace of mind and more confidence that you’re doing the job right. These handy small tools will do most of the measuring for you so that all of your pulls and knobs look perfect. See how Russet Street Reno added her beautiful new hardware to her cabinets and drawers using this small tool here!

4. Spray Paint Grip

Everybody loves how a can of spray paint can instantly make over anything, but it can make your trigger finger tired after long bouts of spraying. And when you get tired, your paint can start to come out in spurts, causing splatter and dripping. Not good. Give your finger a break and get a smoother finish with a spray paint grip.

5. Damaged Screw Extractor

Is there anything more annoying than a damaged and stripped screw that you can’t remove with your drill? The answer is no. A stripped screw can completely derail a project… unless you have a damaged screw extractor. This small tool makes it easy to remove damaged screws from your latest DIY project or from an older piece of furniture.

The best part about all these small tools is that they’re not expensive at all. Most of them cost under $20 (some way under that amount), but they will feel like they’re worth hundreds when they instantly solve a DIY problem you’re struggling with.

What other small tools do you think that every DIYer should have in their toolbox?

How To DIY Wooden Flower Pot

Every homeowner has some flowers in pots in front of the house, on the patio, balcony or in the backyard and every homeowner wants that their pots match the beauty of their flowers or trees. There are thousand types of flowers pots and they are made from various materials. Flower pots, especially big ones, can cost a lot of money and the quality of craftsmanship and materials are questionable. We always prefer natural materials and therefore we are presenting you this tutorial on how to make DIY wooden flower pot.

For this project you will need 8 lumber boards (1 x 1½ inch) 18 inches long (hardwood if possible), 38 lumber boards (1 x 1½ inch) 13½ inches long (hardwood if possible), 3 lumber boards (1 x 3½ inch) 13½ inch long (hardwood if possible), wood screws (2 inch), wood glue, cordless drill, hammer, nails (2½ inch) and a hand saw or a jigsaw.

First cut all the lumber in proper dimensions using a hand saw or a jigsaw  (if you haven’t already bought wood of wanted size). Take note that the aformentioned dimensions can be changed in scale if you want a bigger or smaller pot.

Take a closer look at the diagram below before you start with your project. It is always better to fully understand the plan and the concept before you start with the project. In that way you will certainly avoids mistakes during assembly.

You must start your assembly with the four corners of your future flower pot. Take two 18 inches long boards and connect them together in “L” shape like in the picture below. First drill four holes with a small bit on each board, put a stripe of wood glue and then connect two boards with wood screws. Always first drill small holes because otherwise the board may crack when you try to screw without holes. Repeat the process for another three corners.

Now take two corner parts which you made in previous step and connect them with 13½ inches boards like in the picture below. Put a stripe of wood glue and nail the boards down. Always leave ½ of inch space on the bottom side. Repeat this procedure in order to get another side panel.

When your two side panels are finished you will connect them on both sides with 13½ inch boards like in the picture below. Also put a stripe of wood glue and nail the boards down.

Now you have complete pot without the bottom. Use two 13½ inches boards and nail them sideways on the bottom part of your pot. Then use three wider boards and nail them from the inside of the pot on the boards which you previously nailed sideways like in the picture below.

Your new flower pot is now finished. As you can see this is the project that anyone with no woodworking experience can finish in a couple of hours.

We advise you to put at least two coats of primer sealer in the inside of the pot if you are putting the soil directly into the pot. If you want your pot to look beautiful for a long time we advise you to paint it with exterior paint on the outside also.

Understanding Power Tools

Almost every home in America has at least one power tool, but many homeowners are not always sure how and when to use them. Start by checking out our guide to power tools below, and be sure to read the instructions and follow the safety guidelines that came with your power tool before using it. You'll be finishing up your own home project in no time.

Safety First!
When working with any type of power tool, always remember to put safety first. By following these simple guidelines, you will be able to use your power tools in the safest manner possible.

Follow the manufacturer's guidelines and directions
Wear eye protection
Wear clothing that does not hang or dangle loosely
If wearing gloves, make sure they are leather
Make sure that the safety guards are in place and working
Replace damaged parts or damaged tools before using them
Always keep a firm grip on your tools
When sanding, wear a dust mask
Wear ear plugs or ear muffs when operating a noisy power tool
If you have long hair, tie it back
When using tools outdoors, plug them into a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlet

Jigsaw (or Sabre Saw)
A jigsaw is a small, handheld saw that moves a narrow blade up and down. Because the blades are narrow and the cutting action is vertical, these saws are ideal for curved or intricate cuts. Jigsaws are very easy to use for more delicate woodcutting. Hobbyists and DIY home improvers frequently use this saw. A large variety of blades can be purchased for these devices.
Common Uses:
*Cutting a radius in woodwork

Circular Saw
Circular saws are one of the most versatile power saws. These saws enable you to cut boards, plywood, larger pieces of trim, etc. Most circular saws are packaged with a standard blade; however you may wish to purchase additional blades. Circular saws are available in both corded and battery operated models.
Common Uses:
*Cutting 2 x 4s for framing
*Cutting deck boards for decking
*Cutting a full sheet of plywood into smaller sections

Miter Saw (or Chop Saw)
Miter saws are most commonly used for smooth, accurate cuts of wood trim. However these saws can also be used to cut 2 x 4s and 4 x 4s. This saw has a number of pre-set angles that you can use, which is a great feature when you are making repetitive cuts.
Common Uses:
*Making miter cuts on moldings
*Multiple cuts on similar length stock

Electric Sander
Sanders mechanically speed up the movement of sandpaper to more quickly smooth out a rough surface. The most basic sander is a 1/4-sheet pad sander that allows you to create a more finished look on your surface.
Common Uses:
*Refinishing furniture
*Preparation of new wood for finishing

Power Drill
A power drill is not only good for drilling various sized holes, but it also allows you to use other accessories such as driver bits, wire brush wheels, sanding drums and many other attachments. Drills can either be corded or battery operated. Cordless models are available in various voltages including 9.6, 12, 14.4 and 18 volts.
Common Uses:
*Drilling holes in wood, metal and masonry
*Driving Screws